I’ve been back from Malta for about a month, and I still honestly do not understand its captivating culture to the extent that I would like. Needless to say, Malta was a very interesting trip. It had a strange and mystic atmosphere that confused me. We spent a wonderful time touring the coast like a local- and this was because we met a local, who has to be, precisely, one of the most fascinating guys I’ve met. He took us on backroad, scenic tours around Mdina and we got to experience a drive through of the residential life there, which I have to say is very quaint. We walked through the old city of Mdina and saw some of the landmarks where they filled Game of Thrones season one at, beautiful artwork, and very old buildings. The city is 7,000 years old! On the weekend we took a guided tour to Comino and Gozo. Unfortunately, the weather was dreary in the morning and we were rained on in Comino and Blue Lagoon, so we didn’t swim much, however we continued our tour to the island of Gozo, where the weather cleared up and we got to explore the old town, climb a rocky mountain leading to a grotto, and collect a ton of sea-glass on the beach. The town itself was very quiet and quaint. We ate at Ta Rikardu in the Citadella where we had their fresh-made cheese AND assorted cheese and vegetable platter. Never to much cheese! For our second course we had goat-cheese filled, homemade ravioli which was, without a doubt, the BEST ravioli I have EVER had. After lunch we stumbled along a craft shop where the owner made his own lace pieces with Maltese lace, and if you know me, you know I have a slight obsession with fabrics so it was heaven. Another favorite part of the trip was Valletta. It is a beautiful, culture filled city, with a slow atmosphere and eclectic side streets where you can explore and get the good kind of lost in. At the top of the city you are confronted with a beautiful view overlooking the harbor for the large cruise ships, where they set off the cannons every day at 12:00 and 4:00 pm. We saw a Picasso and Joan Miró exhibit, a space that was curated with wonderful sketches and drawings by Picasso very unlike his overly advertised Cubist art and a large collection of Miró paintings; I’m a harsh critic of Picasso, and I’m partial to Miró, but the exhibit was surprising beautiful! The show was at the Grandmasters Palace in the center of Valletta which has a strikingly large armory collection as well. Just like Florence, walking down the old streets, you will find street art and many jewelers - Malta prides itself on silver, so the pieces are worth a look since some that we saw were handmade and designed themselves (just make sure you’re at an authentic shop). My advice if your going to Malta is to first do you research, see what you want to do and plan it out. I recommend renting a car to access all the grottos, hillsides, and hidden treasures that I’m sure the city has to offer. Also, don’t be shy with trying different food- it was amazing! Especially the cheese, sushi, and chocolate cakes! As long as your sure to TripAdvisor your way through the restaurant list I don’t think you can have a bad meal. And go to JAR, just do it.
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Over spring break I was determined to get away from rainy and cloudy Florence and go somewhere warm. Instead I ended up in Switzerland. It was freezing… literally, but it was a wonderful surprise of great chocolate, cheese, art, and mountains, despite our trip getting off to a rough start with a five hour delay in Rome because of light snow that New Jersey wouldn't even deem worthy of a two hour delay. When we finally arrived in Switzerland, after making the mistake of getting a cab that charged us $.10 every five seconds (literally) we arrived drowsy and hungry at our youth hostel. After some relaxation we headed out to Swiss Chuchi for some cheese fondue. The Switzerland found is nothing like fondue in America. I was expecting a flavor filled, non-alcoholic cheesy fondue and instead was served fondue with a bland flavor and such a strong alcohol taste that I felt tipsy after. We didn't find out until the next day that what we had was typical Swiss fondue and that we could order it without the alcohol base which is what we did the next night because, of course, we had to make up for the night before. I mean who wouldn't go to Switzerland and make sure they were 100% satisfied with their fondue experience? Needless to say, ordering it without the alcohol was the right choice! The following day Liz and I went on yet another hiking adventure to Rhine Falls. (Traveling tip: you can get to Rhine Falls without paying an arm and a leg for a guided tour. Its literally a quick train ride and short bus ride away!) From the bus station, the walk to the top of the falls, where there is an old castle, is about a half hour; however it really is worth the walk because you end up with a beautiful 360 view of the scene that allow you to see the rushing, clear blue water, along with a lovely serene hike. Walking around the falls is free, but if you want to get up close and personal (and gain access to the museum) I suggest buying the $5.00 ticket to head down the mountain into a cave that takes you close enough to feel the water. It was freezing, but the beautiful natural art of ice that formed where the cave met the water, along with the long stalactites forming above us in the cave really took you into another world. It was something that you really wouldn't get to experience just seeing the falls from afar. The third day in Switzerland, Liz and I did what we do best and headed to a few museums. The first museum was small and extremely contemporary but worth it if you enjoy that period of art. It hosts different contemporary artists all year long so it is a great way to learn, not only about new artists but also about living artists. Beware, it is described as a Dada museum and is not a Dada museum. After that we went to Kuntshaus Zurich which was also considered a Dada museum and was everything but a Dada museum. Dada was born in Zurich, so I was really excited to see some original Dada artwork. I was terribly disappointed, but that being said, it was a wonderful, and very large collection. It had everything from the realism of Dutch art to an entire room dedicate to Munch and Van Gogh. It housed some delightful works on paper that are rarely seen by Picasso and Degas. There is a very strong Modern and Abstract art section along with a solid collection of Renaissance artwork. I also enjoyed learning more about Swiss artists, since it wasn't something that was covered in the general art history classes that I have taken. One of my favorite artists was Ferdinand Holder. The museum had a beautifully curated room dedicated to him, displaying his larger than life nude figure paintings of strong women, along with some soft and eloquent landscapes that provide the perfect inspiration for a fellow landscape painter. The next day we gave in and signed up for a bus tour that took us all the way up to Mount Rigi. We really did try our best to plan the trip up there ourselves, but it ended up being cheaper to take the tour, which was not as geeky as I expected. At first they took us through a lovely drive up the mountains, and when we reached the top we got into a cable car that had a 360 degree view of the mountains, gliding us over caps of snow and into above clouds. It was an amazing experience, even for someone who is afraid of heights. After getting off the cable car we took TWO trains up to Mount Rigi, where you can ski, hike, or take toboggan rides down the mountain. There are places to eat, drink, relax and you can even bring your dog! I ended up wandering around and took in Gods great creation. It was one of the most beautiful sites I have ever seen. I felt literally on top of the world; a mountain, that was filled with people, but somehow held a comforting silence that allowed a peaceful mind to wander. The trip down the mountain was just as beautiful, as we headed down in the oldest cogwheel train in Europe that passed local farm houses, encased in fog and overlooking Lucerne Lake, which gave us a glimpse into the daily life of the people who live there. Finally after the ride, which took about an hour, we ended up at the edge of the lake, where we boarded a large boat that took us another 45 minutes into the town of Lucerne. Being out on the water for the first time in years was a blessing. I grew up living on the bay and spent my best years soaking up the sun on our boat with friends and family, so any form of boating holds a special place in my heart. The weather reached a tolerable temperature, so sitting on the back deck and watching the mountains I had just climbed sink into the distance was a must. In The town of Lucerne, which I prefer over Zurich, one can see a Picasso Museum, old churches, chocolate factories, and painted buildings. You can also acquire a decent, but expensive lunch, swiss knives, swiss carved clocks, and take a walk across the old bridge that leads you into squares with old painted frescos surrounding you. In the town of Lucerne you feel like your walking through a literal town straight out of Frozen (which I know doesn't take place in Switzerland, but its similar so you get the point). My best advice? Walk along the bridge, admire the clear water. Head to some of the squares and check out the talent filled painted buildings, and then end your day with chocolate. Always chocolate. Day five brought a wonderful surprise of the Fraumünster Church, known for its famous, and original stained glass windows painted by Mark Chagall and Augusto Giacometti. Fraumünster held the oldest and only Renaissance frescos in Zurich. They were truly a site to be seen, old and destroyed, with only the restored outlines suggesting three wise men, Mary, Jesus, etc. on the ceilings. Unless you are a student, you do have to pay $5 to see the inside of the church, but an audio guide is included and it is worth the price, especially because of the famous windows. However, if you don’t want to get the tickets, the courtyard of the church is just as impressive with its large Protestant themed frescos done by an unknown artist. We had about an hour left before we had to head to the airport so we took one last walk through the town of Zurich and finally arrived at the Cabaret Voltaire, and if I have ever had a religious experience walking into building, well, that was it. It was the most invigorating thing I have ever seen. Just to be surrounded by the signatures of the artists themselves in the cement walls, to stand where Hugo Ball preformed Karawane in front of friends in Jean Arp’s custom made costume is a experience in itself. The illumination of the room, the dark walls surrounding the light brown, wood floor with the same blue column I learned about so long ago… I have few words. The ability, the blessing, to be able to see these things I have learned about in person is something that no amount of adjectives or description can explain. Needless to say, I am blessed. This semester I was lucky enough to have four consecutive days off a week, so when I got back to Italy after Christmas break I decided I was going to take full advantage of it and do some traveling outside of Florence. After much research a few friends and I finally decided that for our first trip this semester, we were going to go to Madrid, Spain. The idea of Spain popped into my head for the sole purpose of my undying desire to see Velasquez’s Las Mininas and Goya’s The Third of May. I got my friends on board with the plan and a week later we literally got on board and arrived in Madrid. I am a planner. So before we left I organized an itinerary that we could lonely base our trip off of. I had addresses and times for the museums and spas we wanted to go to, and events that were happening that weekend in Madrid. I had everything perfect… except for the address to our AirBnb. I would like to also start off by saying this was not my fault, as the address I had was the address given to me by the person we were renting the apartment from. After getting in the cab and realizing we didn't have the apartment number, the driver dropped us off mid street and said good luck. We wandered around with suitcases for three hours waiting for the owner to email us back, and on the fourth hour we finally decided to find a hotel. Right after we checked in, wasted half the day wandering in search for a house that looked like the photos, and settled into the hotel room, I get an email from the owner with the correct apartment number. So we weren't off to the best start, but it makes for a good story. That evening we went to the Temple of Debod, which I highly recommend going to see, especially at sunrise or sunset. It’s a large outdoor park with an Egyptian temple that was brought to Madrid with views overlooking the entire city. If you go at night the entire temple is lit up and the lights reflect off of the water that surrounds it. I suggest taking a walk around the park and listening to some local music, even if its cold. There is also a very cool mom and pop book store right across the street with walls and corners stacked with books. This is a very popular spot, and attracts many young kids and tourists, but it is worth it. After the Temple of Debod, we walked our way to Alhambra which was highly recommended as a restaurant for great Tapa’s. It is on a tourist street in the city, but the food was immaculate. We all shared multiple Tapa’s and I would highly recommend the fried goat cheese with a blueberry glaze on the side. My friends also got the eggplant with goat cheese, and the vegetable platter. Apparently goat cheese is very popular in Madrid, and I have to say this country does it right. The restaurant serves soft drinks, liquor, wine, but only has one beer selection. The atmosphere is lively and energetic, and the two times we went they were busy, but it is worth the wait. (Also note that is customary to tip around 15% in Spain). Over the next two days we spent our time at the Museo Nacional del Prado which is a huge museum filled with a ton of world famous artists and artworks. I have to say out of all of the museums I have been to, it is the best collection I have ever seen. The downside? No photos, so don't lug your heavy camera around. And the coat racks/lockers filled up quickly, so arrive with minimal things. The museum is free for students 25 and under with ID with a date of birth on it. It is very busy, even quite early in the morning, so if you want to skip the line then get tickets before you go. If your an art lover plan to spend a good amount of time here. I was consecutively looking at the artworks for about 3.5 hours and thats with skipping the entire Italian Flemish and Renaissance art section (sorry Italy.) After spending some time analyzing Goya’s different time periods and seeing his work through the periods, I have a new, very serious respect for him. I don't want to tell you specific paintings to see, because it’s something you just have to experience on your own; its that amazing of a collection. Just take my advice and take your time during your visit. We also went to the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza which was a very welcome surprise. The collection is huge and enjoyable. The museum set up is a bit confusing so grab a map, but also take some time to get lost because they have a lovely selection of works. If you are a modern art lover like me than this is especially the place for you to be! They have very large selection of avant-garde paintings, and you can take photos! Some of my favorites that I saw were by Andrew Wyeth and Sonia Delauny Terk. As you get to the end of the ground floor try to find the Richard Estes insane photo-realism paintings and get up close and personal. Check out the detail because they are so precise that I had to do a double take to make sure i wasn't looking at photographs. Also keep an eye out for the Arnold Bocklin painting’s, which are off to the side in a double glass case. They are not my favorite works, but they are a rarity. Both the Prado and the Thyssean Museum maps provide you a list of the “most famous” artworks, but take my advice and don’t rush to see those. In the process you will miss out of discovering something new and beautiful. Obviously in Spain Flamenco dancing is a must, so if your planning a trip in the near future, add that to your list. We went to La Taberna de Mister Pinkleton, which was quaint and non-touristy. I suggest not eating dinner during the show. Stick to just getting a drink. The dinner is distracting and the dancers preform with just intense emotion that you wont want to miss a second of it. Plus, dancing is an art and they deserve your respect while preforming. Take your camera and take photos/videos, but enjoy the show without a screen as well. Whenever you go, make sure to get tickets ahead of time. We did it last minute and there were very few places available. Some places can get pricy, but it’s worth every penny, so if your on a budget, try to factor a Flamenco performance in. I have to say at the end of the day, Madrid was one of the best places I have been to. It is very large and populated, similar to New York City, so it is different than the small city of Florence. It is beautiful and lively. Head to a rooftop bar to overlook the entire city while your there as well! Embrace the food and the culture because theres nothing like it anywhere else. Keep an eye out for the local food and vintage markets. If you do happen to go in, make sure your purses and backpacks are secure from being pick pocketed (just like you would in any city). We only went for four days, including the day we arrived and left. I would have liked to have stayed another day just to explore the city because we spent most of our time in museums, but I wouldn't think you need more than a week there. Enjoy the culture, drink a cup of tea, have some fried goat cheese, churros and hot chocolate, pick through the markets, and please spend some time with Goya! |
Author: Melissa KirkAll blog posts are written by Melissa unless otherwise cited. No part of this publication may be distributed without prior permission from the author. |